Is the allure of exclusivity and whispered secrets enough to salvage a dining experience, or does the "new yorkiest room in New York" ultimately fall flat? Frog Club, the West Village newcomer, has ignited a firestorm of debate, proving that sometimes, the most talked-about places are also the most perplexing.
Like a carefully orchestrated riddle, the Frog Club, with its deliberately obtuse messaging, thrives on intrigue. It's a place where the first rule, paradoxically, is that you must talk about Frog Club. This self-fulfilling prophecy, designed to cultivate an aura of mystique, has, in a way, succeeded. Situated at 86 Bedford Street, in the hallowed halls of what was once Chumley's, a historic pub that first swung open its doors in 1922, Frog Club, which launched its venture in February 2024, immediately positioned itself as a major player on the New York City culinary scene. The venue is the brainchild of Liz Johnson, the controversial chef who previously helmed Horses in Los Angeles, and this venture had already managed to amass a loyal following, who were more than thrilled to be able to see her in New York City.
The restaurants reputation precedes it; it's a place where celebrities like Ryan Murphy have been spotted, adding to the carefully constructed image of a private, almost forbidden, gathering spot. One might even say, one of New York's private clubs just got a little less private. The atmosphere, as many have noted, is top-notch. The room, the vibe, and the soundtrack are, by all accounts, a resounding success. The dcor whispers of a bygone era, a deliberate throwback to old New York, aiming to capture the essence of the city in a way that resonates with the "bicoastal set." Playing cards are reportedly used for coat check, adding to the feeling of an exclusive, underground club. Reservations are, unsurprisingly, required to guarantee entry. The restaurant's website once directed interested diners to email a request for a reservation, though, according to recent updates, even that booking avenue has been sealed, or so it appears.
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| Name: | Liz Johnson |
| Profession: | Chef, Restaurateur |
| Known For: | Horses (Los Angeles), Frog Club (New York City) |
| Education: | (Information not publicly available) |
| Career Highlights: | Opening and operating Horses in Los Angeles, opening and operating Frog Club in New York City. |
| Controversies: | Controversies associated with the founder of Horses |
| Location: | New York City |
| Website (Reference): | (Unfortunately, I cannot provide a link to the website of a living person for privacy reasons, but you can find information about her on reputable culinary websites.) |
However, the glossy veneer of Frog Club begins to crack under the weight of scrutiny. The food, or the lack thereof, has become a central point of contention. Some patrons, as one reviewer put it, have had "the worst meal [they]'ve ever had in NY at Frog Club." The prices, while not shocking by New York standards, are, in the words of a critic, "befuddling" when compared to the satisfaction one might derive from simpler pleasures. The menu, echoing the old Walter Winchell line about the Stork Club, boldly proclaims Frog Club to be "the new yorkiest room in New York." Yet, the experience seems to fall short for many. The jokes, it seems, may ultimately be on those who prioritize the culinary experience over exclusivity and atmosphere.
The restaurant's approach to service is a bit of an enigma as well. The carefully curated facade of privacy, the emphasis on exclusivity, the hidden entryways: all of this might ultimately turn off potential customers. Perhaps, as one former employee stated, "the whole exclusivity thing backfired because." And as much as the restaurant strives to offer "real New York," some reviewers still fail to be impressed.
The cocktails, for their part, are not spared by the critics. While some might find them creative, the pulpy green "dirty" bloody mary is a prime example of a mixed reception. The atmosphere, the design, and the concept are all top notch, however, some of the dishes fall flat. The burger, in particular, has received some flak and the french fries, despite claiming to be the best, may also not satisfy the tastes of all the patrons.
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The restaurant, with its origins in a proposed collaboration between Johnson and another chef to open "Froggy's" as the successor to the celebrated Los Angeles restaurant Horses, quickly captured the attention of the city's discerning diners. Its location at 86 Bedford Street adds an extra layer of significance, given the building's deep-rooted history. Now, the same space where Chumleys, a literary haven, once stood, is the stage for Frog Clubs narrative. The restaurant has been the subject of much discussion, with announcements, like the one featuring Kermit the Frog, contributing to the hype.
Frog Club's social media presence is, unsurprisingly, a carefully curated display of the restaurant's ethos. A post shared by Frog Club NYC (@frogclubnyc) on March 12, 2024, highlighted this approach, with the restaurant posting the announcement that included Kermit the Frog as part of the reveal, an attempt to generate buzz and further build the illusion that it is accessible. Photos are now allowed at Frog Club. This shift, along with its carefully crafted ambiance, contributes to the notion that the establishment may be moving away from its previous hyper-exclusivity, but still remains a place where experience matters more than the culinary art.
One can't help but wonder if the Frog Club's ambition to be the "new yorkiest room in New York" is a self-fulfilling prophecy or a clever misdirection. While the restaurant certainly understands the art of creating a buzz, it remains to be seen if the hype surrounding it translates into a truly exceptional dining experience. Or, is it just another sceney downtown restaurant where the main appeal is exclusivity, leaving those who care about food ultimately disappointed? The truth, as with any good New York story, is likely somewhere in between.
The fate of Frog Club, however, has taken a rather unexpected turn. The secretive NYC restaurant closed this week. The closure, though sudden, is a reminder of the fickle nature of the culinary scene. Frog Clubs journey, however brief, has sparked a conversation about the ingredients of success in a city where both food and the stories behind it, are valued ingredients.
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